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Autumn menu: truffle and mushrooms

The fileja changes with the season, and from mid-October come mushrooms from the Poro and black truffle from Pizzo — the real thing, foraged just above us, not the kind that arrives pre-sliced. The dish itself does not change: pasta rolled by hand on the ferretto, the way my grandmother made it, half an hour to fill a single tray. What changes is what goes on top. In summer it is ’nduja and tomato; now it is a mushroom sauce with a little butter and the truffle grated at the very last moment, at the table, because too much heat takes the aroma away. It stays on the menu until early November, as long as the mushrooms last. Do book for the weekend: we have twelve tables and at this time of year they fill.

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